Retinol: Magic Trick or Marketing Myth?

Retinol (a form of vitamin A) is one of the most popular ingredients in modern cosmetology. It is often called a "magic remedy" that promises rejuvenation, fighting pigmentation and acne. But is it really so? In this article, we will analyze the main myths about retinol, based on the opinion of a practicing cosmetologist, and tell you how to use this ingredient correctly to get the maximum benefit and avoid unpleasant consequences.

Is retinol addictive?

This statement belongs to the field of psychology rather than physiology. "Retinol is psychologically dependent. Yes, it's just that when you're used to using retinol, you have a radiant, clean face, and you like the way you look." - explains Dr. Gubareva. If you stop using retinol, your skin will return to its normal state, but you should not expect the rejuvenation effect to last.

Retinol cannot be used by pregnant women?

This is the truth, which is confirmed by Dr. Gubareva. "Retinol is not allowed for pregnant women, guys. This is true. “ Although topical retinol remedies are considered less dangerous, pregnant women should consult a doctor before using them.

Risk to the fetus. Retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A (including retinol), in high doses can negatively affect the development of the embryo and cause congenital anomalies. Internal retinoids (such as isotretinoin) are strictly contraindicated during pregnancy for this reason, and although retinol creams are less aggressive, there is still a risk of exposure.

Skin sensitivity. During pregnancy, the skin may become more sensitive and prone to irritation. Retinol often causes redness and peeling, which can be exacerbated.

Alternatives. Instead of retinol, many doctors advise pregnant women to use gentler and safer products, such as vitamin C, niacinamide or peptides, which help preserve the skin without potential risks.

Does retinol thin the skin?

This statement is partially true. Retinol can temporarily thin the top layer of the skin, But this is rather a side effect of its renewing action.

"If we are talking about retinol cream, about external remedies, then in this case there will be no thinning. Dryness can occur if used incorrectly, so there are no problems with it. That is, it's like half true, half myth," - the doctor explains.

Retinol accelerates cell turnover and helps to exfoliate dead skin cells, making the skin look smoother and more renewed. In the early stages of use, the skin may become more sensitive and thin, which causes a feeling of "thinning".

Can't retinol be used in the summer?

When using retinol in the summer, caution should be exercised. "I personally do not recommend starting in the summer, but I know that some people gradually, with small doses, start the course in the summer. If the patient is adequate, he uses SPF, does not lie in the sun all the time, then everything is absolutely calm even in summer." It is worth considering that if you are prone to pigmentation, it is recommended to stop using retinol a few days before going to the sea.

Are retinol and retinoic acid the same?

Retinol and retinoic acid are different, albeit related, forms of vitamin A, and they work differently on the skin. Retinoic acid is one of the forms of retinol, more active and stronger. Both forms of vitamin A are effective, but when choosing between them, it is important to consider the individual characteristics of the skin.

Retinol is a less active form of vitamin A. In order for it to start acting on skin cells, retinol must first be converted to retinoic acid. Retinoic acid (or tretinoin) is the active form of vitamin A. It acts directly on skin cells and is used in some prescription medications, such as acne and anti-aging.

Retinol It is slowly converted by the skin to retinoic acid (it goes through the stages of conversion first to retinal and then to retinoic acid). This makes it softer and less irritating to the skin. Retinoic acid It acts immediately and more aggressively, as it does not require conversion, but can cause severe irritation, redness and peeling, especially in people with sensitive skin.

Retinol works slower and requires more time and regular use to have a visible effect. Retinoic acid It acts faster and results are usually noticeable faster, but it requires special care when applying.

Retinol Sold in over-the-counter products such as creams and serums. Retinoic acid Available primarily with a doctor's prescription and used for more serious cases, such as acne or pronounced age-related changes.

Retinol should not be combined with other substances.

This is true. Yes, there are a few substances when using retinol that are best avoided in the same skincare routine, as they can increase irritation or reduce its effects. 

Acids (AHA/BHA). Glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids (AHA and BHA) can be too aggressive when combined with retinol. They exfoliate the skin, which can increase the risk of irritation and dryness. It is better to alternate them, using, for example, retinol in the evening, and acids on other days.

Vitamin C. Vitamin C can also irritate the skin if applied at the same time as retinol. In addition, vitamin C works better at a lower pH and retinol works better at a higher pH, which reduces their effectiveness. It is recommended to use vitamin C in the morning (under SPF protection) and retinol in the evening.

Benzoyl peroxide. It is an active ingredient for the treatment of acne, and it can neutralize the effects of retinol. In addition, the combination of these two components can greatly dry out and irritate the skin. It is better to use them at different times, for example, benzoyl peroxide in the morning, and retinol in the evening.

Other Retinoids. Avoid using multiple retinoid products at once, as this can cause excess skin irritation. If you already have a product with a retinoid (for example, tretinoin) in your care, you should not use retinol additionally.

To reduce the likelihood of irritation and enhance the effect, retinol works well with:

Moisturizing ingredients: such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides. They help soften the skin and prevent dryness.

Niacinamide: It soothes the skin, reduces redness, and restores the protective barrier, making it a great addition to retinol.

SPF protection: Be sure to use sunscreen in the morning, as retinol makes the skin more sensitive to UV light.

Should I use retinol every day?

"Do I need to use retinol every day? Well, really, if we want a pronounced effect, yes, then it needs to be applied every day," - says Dr. Gubareva. But daily use is not always required. In general, the more often you use retinol, the more pronounced the effect, but you should start gradually, with 1-2 times a week.

Can retinol only be used after 40 years?

Retinol can also be used at a younger age, and its use is not limited to 40 years. The question of age has more to do with goals and skin condition than with a specific age threshold. "It's really a myth because we prescribe retinol to eighteen-year-old girls as well," - says Dr. Gubareva. Retinol is often prescribed to adolescents to treat acne.

The main things to remember: 1. Choice of concentration and form: Retinol can be adapted to the needs and condition of the skin, allowing it to be used safely and effectively at any age, starting from about 25 years of age. 2. Regularity and gradualness: It is important to gradually increase the concentration and frequency of application. 3. Sunscreens: Sun protection is a must, as retinol makes the skin more sensitive to UV light.

Is retinol dangerous for the eye area?

Retinol can be used in the eye area, but with caution, as the skin there is thinner and more sensitive. Therefore, it can cause irritation, dryness and redness in this area, especially if high concentrations are applied or too often. Use creams specially formulated for the eyes: Many brands produce retinol creams that are designed specifically for the eye area. They usually have a milder formula and a reduced concentration of retinol. Start using a product with a low concentration of retinol around the eyes: It is better to use a low concentration (e.g. 0.1%) and gradually increase it as the skin gets used to it.

So, retinol is not dangerous to the eye area when used correctly. However, for sensitive skin, it is important to start with caution and observe the reaction, especially in the first weeks.

How to use retinol correctly?

● Start with a low concentration and gradually increase it.

● Use retinol at night only.

● Always apply SPF protection during the day.

● Do not apply retinol to damp skin.

● If allergies (redness, swelling) occur, discontinue use.

Choosing Retinol

"If you want to choose your own professional retinol, I honestly strongly do not recommend doing it," says Dr. Gubareva. However, if you do decide to do it, start with a minimum concentration. It is important to understand that professional retinol products are usually more effective than pharmacy ointments. "Keep in mind that you won't get the exact effect of retinol that a quality professional retinol in liposomal form can give, because your retinol will work on the surface, and it will work more as an antioxidant."

Summary

Retinol is an effective ingredient that can help improve skin conditions, but it should be used wisely. "If you want stimulation, deep work with the skin, and those effects that make everyone squeak, then you need professional cosmetics and professional selection," - concludes Dr. Gubareva.

Before starting to use retinol, especially if you choose professional products, consult a cosmetologist to choose the right product and concentration.