The era of provocations and "ugly fashion" in Balenciaga is officially replaced by a time of sincerity. On January 15, 2026, the brand's new creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, presented his collection Pre-Fall 2026, demonstrating a radically different view of the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga.
Instead of a theatrical show on the catwalk, the designer chose a laconic digital format: an interview for Business of Fashion and a lightning-fast publication of the lookbook on social networks. This step underlines the brand's new philosophy — Fashion should become more humane and accessible, without unnecessary drama and irony.
Philosophy: "Nothing worse than trying to be cool"
Piccioli's main message is simple and at the same time bold for the modern industry: "There's nothing worse than trying to be cool",. The designer openly declares the rejection of cynicism in favor of empathy and authenticity. In his opinion, the world is tired of heroes and wants to see real people in clothes.
Instead of impressing the audience with outrageousness, Pierpaolo focuses on quality of materials, perfect fit and comfort. His goal is to return "sensual dialogue with form and matter" to haute couture.
What to wear: classics, sports and the NBA
In the new collection, the boundaries between a formal suit and sportswear are finally blurred. Piccioli suggests combining Hoodie with formal shirts and ties, and over it wear loose trench coats or coats with a soft shoulder line.
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Key elements of the collection:
• Collaboration with the NBA: The American sports code is reflected in oversized shorts, chunky sneakers and voluminous bags.
• TechWear: The collection features elements of the brand's new technological line.
• Architectural silhouettes: Piccioli pays homage to Cristóbal Balenciaga himself through sculptural capes and precisely calibrated volumes.
• Purple Color: This shade has become a link throughout the collection, appearing in outerwear and accessories.
• Accessories: Iconic Bags City and Rodeo received a more restrained, masculine reading, and an elegant collaboration with Manolo Blahnik.
While some critics found the collection overly low-key compared to Piccioli's debut, it marks an important shift from the brand to harmonious aesthetics,. The designer tries to find a balance between the heritage of the couture house and the demands of a new generation that values sincerity over hype.
For the modern man, this collection is a signal that the wardrobe can be intellectual, sporty and, above all, comfortable at the same time, without losing its status.
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